How to Make T Shirts to

With a little creativity, imagination and the right supplies, you can make and sell t-shirts, online and in person, at festivals and special events. Many of the materials you need to make personalized t-shirts are inexpensive and you can use these materials to make other items. Learn what supplies you need as well as what designs you can utilize to make t-shirts that sell.

Method 1.

1. Go to the fabric store and purchase the type of fabric you need to make the t-shirts. A cotton and spandex blend to make t-shirts provides maximum comfort for the wearer.

2. Buy a pattern to make the type of shirts you want. There are different shirt patterns for v-neck t-shirts, scoop neck t-shirts and sleeveless t-shirts.

3. Pay for the fabric, the pattern and the supplies you need to make the t-shirts by hand.

Method 2. Making T-Shirts with Decals

1. Take your sketches or drawings to a decal store or craft store and have them make heat press decals for you. Depending on the business, having your decals made can take a few days up to a week or longer. Once they are ready, pick them up at the store.

2. Put the heat press machine on if you have your own. Be careful when using the heat press machine. It can reach upwards of a couple of 100 degrees. Read the directions thoroughly before you attempt to use this machine.

3. Place the t-shirt onto the heat press. Make sure it is centered and has no wrinkles in it. Place the decal onto the shirt. Make sure you centered the decal in the middle of the shirt.

4. Press the handle down on the heat press machine and hold the bar down until you hear a beep. The beep lets you know when the shirt is ready.

5. Remove the t-shirt from the heat press. Place it on the hanger and set it to the side. You can continue making the personalized t-shirts until all of the decals are used up.

Method 3. Making T-Shirts with Rhinestones

1. Place the t-shirt onto a craft table or flat surface. You can use a sketch you have drawn previously as a guideline or use a stencil or pattern to help you with proper placement of the rhinestones.

2. Hold the stencil steady by placing tape on it. Grab your glue gun or special glue pen.

3. Place the rhinestone onto the pattern or stencil and begin gluing the rhinestones onto the t-shirt. Continue gluing the rhinestones onto the t-shirt until you complete the pattern.

4. Hang the t-shirt on a hanger or flat surface and allow the glue time to dry. Experiment with different patterns and different colored rhinestones to get an idea of what design works best with the rhinestones you purchased.


  • In the beginning, when you sell t-shirts, it is best to make a few different designs so you can see which t-shirt designs sell and which t-shirt designs don’t sell.
  • You can also add rhinestones to shirts with decals after you have added the decal.
  • Since most men prefer shirts with decals on them, investing in a heat press machine is ideal. You can also make your own t-shirts for a low price. To get an idea of how popular your shirts will be, wear a different style of t-shirt a few days a week to see if you receive feedback from other people.

Things You’ll Need

  • T-shirt pattern

  • Fabric in different colors

  • Heat press machine

  • Heat press decals

  • Pattern or stencil

  • Flat back Swarovski crystals in a variety of colors

  • Glue gun or glue pen

How to Remove a Sticker from Plastic

Getting stickers off of plastic seems like it should be much easier than it is. But getting glue to stick to plastic is hard to do, leading most manufacturers to use high-strength adhesives to keep labels on. Whether you can’t remove a sticker or want to clean up the residue there are a variety of potential home solutions to try.

Method 1. Removing the Sticker

1. Always test a removing product on a small patch of plastic before using it. Some chemicals will react poorly with certain plastics, causing them to warp or deform. Before committing to any cleaning solution, use a cotton swab to test the chemical on a small, easily hidden piece of the plastic. Wait 20 minutes, and, if there is no reaction, go forward removing the sticker. custom NHL decals stickers

  • Try and pick off as much of the sticker as possible with your fingernails, the dull edge of a knife, or a razor blade before trying chemical solutions. If the chemical can penetrate the surface of the sticker it will work better.

2. Use a hairdryer on high heat to loosen the adhesive. You only need to blow hot air on the sticker for 45 seconds or so. After you’ve heated the sticker, try and peel off one corner of it. If it is still lodged on, heat it for another 30-45 seconds and try again. If you still have an issue, move on to another solution — the glue is heat-resistant.

3. Soak the label in cooking oil for 12-24 hours. Canola, vegetable, and other oils will soak into the sticker and loosen the adhesive, making it easier to remove later. If it doesn’t work, try again and then scrape it away lightly with a razor blade.

4. Rub the sticker with lacquer thinner. This hardware-store solution can cut right into the sticker, and it only needs 5-10 minutes to soak in. After you’ve let it soak, scrape up the sticker for an adhesive-free clean up. custom mlb stickers

  • Some specialty products, like Goo-gone, function similarly.

5. Use a degreaser, like WD40, to wipe away the sticker. Test the WD40 on a patch of the plastic. Then, spray degreaser on a clean cloth or directly on the sticky label or glue residue. Working in a circular motion, from the center out, rub the sticker until it pulls away.

6. Try nail polish remover or rubbing alcohol. Let the liquid soak into the sticker, or apply it liberally to a cloth and scrub away the sticker. The longer the liquid has to react with the sticker, the easier it will be to remove.

7.Wipe over the sticker with a disinfectant wet wipe. Apply some table salt to the sticker to prevent the glue from continually sticking and to help it coagulate into balls. Use as many wipes as necessary to soak and remove the sticker.

8. Rub an eraser over the sticker. Rub until the sticker lifts, then pull it back. You can then rub over any leftover residue to remove it.

Method 2. Removing Leftover Adhesive

1. Wipe peanut butter over the sticker residue. The oils in peanut butter, believe it or not, will break down many adhesives. Let it sit for a few minutes before wiping it off with a sponge and warm, soapy water.

2. Use baking soda and warm water to remove goo. Mix together a paste with the baking powder and a touch of water, then use it to scrub away the adhesive. If it is not coming off, wipe the paste on the adhesive and let it set for several minutes, then return to it.

3. Use rubbing alcohol to lift the adhesive away. Get a carton of isopropyl alcohol, preferably 90%, and use it with an old rag to wipe away the adhesive.

4. Use a rag coated in WD40 to scrub away the leftover glue. Degreasers like WD40 may react with the plastic, causing it to warp or discolor. Be sure to test it out on a small patch of plastic before attacking the goo. When done, be sure to clean the surface with some water and a touch of dish soap.

5. Use nail polish remover to get it off. Make sure that it contains acetone, which is the key ingredient to removing glues. Let it soak for 4-5 minutes then scrub it away with a sponge, moving in small circles.


  • Pull the sticker at a shallow angle relative to the surface (opposite to the direction in which you are peeling). This makes it more likely to come off cleanly.
  • Soak in a mixture of hot water and dish-washing liquid. Scrub with a brush to remove any lingering bits of your removal method, such as WD40.
  • Use a toothbrush instead of a cloth for tricky bits of adhesive.
  • Instead of peanut butter, you can use margarine or hand lotion. These will work just as fine in dissolving the glue that sticks to the glass.

How to Transfer Photographs to Fabric

Have you ever wanted to transfer a special photo onto fabric, t-shirts, or bags? As it turns out, you can do just that in a day with only a few supplies. It’s a great craft idea for children’s parties, as well as a fun way to customize decor, accessories, and clothing. There are two methods for transferring photos, and you can should be able to find the products you’ll need at your local craft store.

Method 1. Using Gel or Decoupage Medium

1. Choose your medium. Liquitex acrylic gel medium is cheap, and can be found near the paint at any craft store. You can also search for Mod Podge Photo Transfer Medium. This is a specific kind of Mod Podge– regular Mod Podge will not work for fabric. On the internet, you might find more specialized mediums.

  • If you have trouble finding what you are looking for at a craft store, ask someone who works there.

2. Choose your fabric. Most people want to use photo transfers for T-shirt fabric or canvas, which is pretty foolproof. Synthetic fabrics are a little bit more difficult to transfer to. If you are planning to transfer to synthetic fabric, make sure that you test it out with similar fabric first. Your transfer will probably not fare well on stretchy fabric.

  • The stretchier the fabric, the more wear and tear your transfer will have to endure. This is why transfers are often on linen or canvas.

3. Choose your image and cut it out. If you use a gel medium, you will need a laserjet image. You can also use old magazine pages or newspaper images. Some people say that if you use Mod Podge transfer medium, you can use inkjet images as well as laserjet images.

  • If your image has text, you need to flip it horizontally on the computer in order to get the image to transfer correctly. Most programs that you use to open an image have this option; you do not need to use Paint or Photoshop.

4. Cover the front of your image with your medium. You can use a regular bristle brush to do this.

  • The coat of medium should be quite thick. You don’t want to be able to see the image when you are done coating.

5. Press your image onto the fabric. Make sure that all of it is touching the fabric, and smooth out any air bubbles. Let it sit over night.

  • Some people say that it is not necessary to let your image sit overnight if you use gel medium. If you peel off the paper before it has dried completely, your transfer will appear faded.

6. Wet the back of the image, and rub the surface with your fingers. The paper will start coming off. Continue to rub it until all the paper is gone.

  • If you are using the transfer for display, you can use another coat of gel medium to protect it.

7. Wet the back of the image, and rub the surface with your fingers. The paper will start coming off. Continue to rub it until all the paper is gone.

  • If you are using the transfer for display, you can use another coat of gel medium to protect it.
Method 2. Using Photo Transfer Paper

1. Purchase a package of fabric transfer paper. This is available at Best Buy, Wal-Mart, Michael’s, and other craft and office supply stores. Make sure that the paper that you choose matches the kind of printer you have, so that you are not using an laserjet printer to print on inkjet transfer paper.

  • Pay attention to details listed on the package. Most iron-on transfers require cotton or cotton blend fabrics. If your garment or item is dark colored, look for ‘Transfer to Dark’ paper.

2. Print and cut out your transfer. Upload your photo to your computer, and use Paint or a photo program to adjust the size of the photo to suit your needs.

  • When you cut out your image, round the corners of the photo. That way, the corners will not peel after multiple washings. If you have a graphic, cut as close to the edges as possible, and round your corners. Never have sharp edges on your transfer.
  • Keep in mind that any white spaces in the photo will be the color of your garment or item.

3. Take the backing off of your paper. Apply the transfer face-down on the fabric, so that the printed side is against the fabric.

  • Take care not to tear the image as you peel the backing off.

4. Iron your image onto the fabric. Make sure that your iron is very hot, and is not emitting any steam, as this will ruin the transfer. Iron on a hard, non-porous surface instead of an ironing board.

  • Most irons have a setting that you can alter to stop them from emitting steam, but you can also make sure there’s no water in the iron.

5. Peel off the paper. You can peel one corner to check your image first. If it is spotty, you can carefully put it back and iron some more. Some people like the distressed look of half-transferred images, so feel free to experiment if this is something you might like.

  • Do not wash your item for 24 hours.

6. Try again. If your iron-on transfers did not work as well as you hoped, try doing things differently the next time. You may have printed on the wrong side of the paper. If your image faded, you may have washed before waiting 24 hours. If your image peeled off, you may not have rounded your edges very well.

  • You need to iron on a hard surface, keep your iron at maximum heat, and apply a great deal of pressure when ironing. Transfers require a lot of heat and pressure in order to stick, so if you do not apply enough hot, even pressure, parts of your transfer may not stick.

7. Turn your garment inside-out to wash it. Hand-washing your transfer is best, but if you must wash it in a machine, turn it inside-out so that other clothes don’t wear on it. Letting the garment air-dry also preserves the transfer.

  • Use a gentle soap. Don’t mix any bleach into your wash.

Things You’ll Need

For the Medium Transfer Method
  • Gel Medium or Mod Podge photo transfer medium

  • A foam brush or regular brush

  • An image


For the Transfer Paper Method
  • Inkjet printer

  • Fabric transfer paper

  • Cotton or cotton/poly blend fabric or garment

  • Iron

  • Hard, non-porous surface

How to Reattach Plastic Lettering to a Jersey

So you’ve got a team jersey that needs some TLC? Are those great looking plasticized letters starting to curl up and peel off? Not a problem. Keep reading for instructions on how you can re-attach them neatly and easily.

1. Launder the jersey on gentle cycle to remove any debris. Allow it to dry. Turn your jersey inside out when laundering it to avoid additional loosening of the lettering.

2. Lay the jersey on the ironing board with numbers smoothed out.

Reattach Plastic Lettering to a Jersey

3. Set your iron to the hottest setting and turn the steam feature off.

Reattach Plastic Lettering to a Jersey v2

4. Position the number carefully, and place the edge of a sheet of plain paper over it.

Reattach Plastic Lettering to a Jersey v3

5. Press the edge (not the whole bottom) of the iron to the edge of the letter.


  • Place the edge of the paper even with the edge of the plastic number so that you can see what you are doing more easily.
  • Use only the edge of the iron, not the entire flat surface. The object is to seal the two layers of plastic to each other along their edges. Using the entire flat part of the iron will place too much heat over too much surface area at once.
  • You will need to experiment with heat, time, and pressure applied to find the best combination. Start with very short pressing time… almost a “tap” and gradually increase it until you come to a (few seconds) time period which will adhere the plastic layers without melting them so much that they stick to the paper.

6. Gently press down and slide the edge of the iron slowly along the edge of the paper.

  • You do not want the iron to actually touch the plastic, as this will melt the plastic and leave ugly goo on your iron. See “Tips” below.

7. Continue until every edge is tacked back down into place.

8. Leave the jersey on the ironing board until everything has cooled down.

9. Pat yourself on the back and prepare for your kid to say “Hey! You fixed it! Thanks!”

Reattach Plastic Lettering to a Jersey  v5


  • Keep the paper between the plastic and your iron to prevent the melted plastic sticking to the iron. The object is to melt the plastic layers together, not melt the plastic to the iron.
  • Waxed paper can be substituted for regular paper, but will leave a wax residue which must then be cleaned off the iron and lettering.
  • You do not want the iron to actually touch the plastic, as this will melt the plastic and leave ugly goo on your iron.
  • If you don’t want to risk further damaging your garment, lots of small sporting goods stores have an iron specially made for adhering numbers to fabric. They can repair your jersey most of the time free of charge.


  • This process is specifically for heat transfer lettering and will not work on silk-screened or sublimated designs. Attempting these steps on such a garment may further damage your product.
  • Irons can get very hot. Handle with appropriate care.

How to Do Iron on T Shirts and Make Designs on the Computer

Applying an iron-on transfer to a t-shirt is a great way to personalize it with your own unique style.

1. Create your design transfer in any picture editing program or open a picture you wish to have on your shirt.

  • Flip the image horizontally as per the directions on the transfer paper you have. You want the picture to appear backwards because when you transfer it to the shirt it will be on correctly. In this example we are using A very Dark T-shirt Transfer that doesn’t tell you to flip the image.

2. Print the picture onto transfer paper.

3. Trim the transfer paper as necessary. Whatever you have left will all be transferred to your t-shirt.

4. Place the T-shirt on a flat, hard surface like a table. Use a clean plain shirt you plan on applying the transfer to.

5. Pre-heat a clothing iron.

6. Iron out the creases in your shirt. Make sure it lies completely flat before the transfer.

7. Peel the backing off the transfer paper.

8. Place the transfer onto the shirt in the location you want the design.

9. Place a soft kitchen towel, terry cloth towel folded in half or the parchment paper from the transfer package on top of the transfer.

10. Place the hot iron onto the towel and work in a circular motion from the middle of the transfer to the edges. How long you do this for is dependent on the instructions included with the transfer paper.

11. Allow the transfer to cool completely.

12. Remove the parchment paper from the transfer. Pull slowly starting at a corner.


  • Turn your shirt inside out when washing it. This will prevent your design from fading and being “washed away.”
  • Make sure you reverse the transfer on the computer before ironing it on.
  • Be careful to not burn the paper on the transfer. This will scorch your design. It will make the finished design have dark burn spots on it.
  • Dry your shirt on low heat to prevent it from cracking or shrinking.
  • Make sure you use a hard, clean surface when ironing; this will prevent wrinkles in the design and give an easier time ironing.
  • It helps if the towel you use is thin, but if too thin (able to see through) you will want to fold it over. This acts as a heat absorber so you don’t burn pattern.
  • If you have a figure instead of a square/rectangular pattern, cut around the figure and leave about 1/4″ around the edges.

How to Make Your Own Personalized Mug

Whether you want to make a special mug for a friend’s birthday or give as a gift around the holidays, nothing says “special gift” like a personalized mug made with love from you. Design your mug using special porcelain paints and a personalized design in mind.

1. Purchase/find a coffee mug. Make sure the mug has no writing or design on it. White is preferable to use as your “canvas.”

  • Repurpose one from home. Use a special mug your friend or family member loves from home as long as it is plain and has no design. You will also want to make sure it’s in decent shape–you don’t want to personalize a mug that’s on its last legs. custom mlb stickers
  • Purchase one from a craft store. Many craft stores sell a variety of plain, white mugs in a variety of sizes for a low price.
  • Wash and dry the mug before personalizing. Even if it’s a mug from home, make sure it’s been thoroughly washed and dried before you being your craft.

2. Create your mug design. On one hand you could do your best Jackson Pollock design on the mug (and splash paint it), however if you intend to put a name or specific shape on the mug you’ll need to map it out and perhaps even create a design template to use as your guide.

  • Search online for designs you like. Print the design and create a template using tracing paper. Look for a design with bold lines that will fit nicely on a mug. Avoid complicated designs as painting/transferring it to the mug may be difficult or too time consuming. custom NHL decals stickers
  • Purchase letter stencils that will fit the mug. Personalization means that you may want to put a name on the mug or even a cute “inside” saying. Find lettering that will compliment your design so your overall mug flows.

3. Paint the background first. You may want to “layer” your personalized mug by first painting the background unless you want the white background.

  • Select a color that will compliment and not conflict with your overall design. You should choose something neutral but soothing to cover your mug.
  • Consider only painting one side of the mug or go for a two-tone mug. Depending on how you plan to design the mug you could just paint one side or you could select two colors for either side. Make sure the colors work well together-for example, you could select school colors from the recipient’s university for the dual colored mug.
  • Wait for the background to completely dry before painting the main design. Otherwise, paint could combine and create a messy look.

4. Transfer your design directly to the mug. Use a wax-pencil to transfer the design to the mug by tracing or just following the printed design.

  • Consider using thin masking tape to block off certain areas of your design to help keep paint lines clean.
  • Cut out the design so you can paint around it. In the event you will be creating more of a graphic type design comprised of circles and shapes, you could cut out your shapes and lightly tape (using tape rings on the back of the paper) the shapes to your mug. Then you could paint over or around the shapes to create a “reverse” effect.

5. Add your message. Wait until the mug is completely dry and then add the recipient’s name or message.

  • Consider using a paint pen instead of a brush. Unless you are working with wide-set lettering, try a paint pen for more control over the letters. Make sure the paint is made for ceramic application.
  • Include a few special personal touches inside the mug such as an insider saying or even a few handmade hearts or stars. Nothing like a little unexpected surprise says, “personalized” so add an intimate saying or joke between the two of you inside or underneath the mug.


  • Create a set of mugs–one for you and one for your friend/family member.
  • If you are feeling un-artistic try going to one of the many online websites that allow for coffee mug customization and personalization.
  • When it comes to purchasing paints, look for paint that is made for porcelain–you can purchase this paint type in both liquid and pens.


  • Make sure to follow the paint label safety directions. Most decorative paint directions will state a minimum distance between the cup rim and where to start painting.
  • Remind the recipient to hand wash mug and to not use abrasive cleaners or to place mug in the dishwater (as it could ruin your design).

How to Create Rhinestone Iron-On Transfers

Iron-on rhinestone designs give your clothes custom glitz and bling. Many iron-on rhinestone designs are available at craft stores and online, but to make something truly unique and custom you may want to design your own. With hotfix rhinestones and mylar transfer hotfix paper, you can easily make custom rhinestone iron-on transers to impress your friends.

Things You’ll Need
  • Hotfix rhinestones

  • Tweezers or rhinestone positioning tool

Creating the Iron-On Transfer

  • Create a simple design in an image editing program on your computer, or type a word or short phrase using a simple font in a word processing program. This design is the image you will create with the rhinestones. If you do not have access to a computer, you may draw your design on paper.

  • Choose the option in your printer settings for “reverse” or “mirror,” and print your design. Make sure that the design prints backwards, especially if your design uses words or has other details that need to face a certain way. If your design was hand-drawn, make a copy so it appears backwards.

  • Tape your design to a flat work surface.

  • Cut a piece of mylar hotfix transfer paper larger than the design. Remove the white paper backing and set it aside. Place the clear transfer paper–sticky side up–on to the design. Tape the corners of the transfer paper down so it won’t move.

  • Place the rhinestones face down along the lines of the design using tweezers. The backs of the rhinestones should be facing up. Keep the rhinestones about 1/16 in. apart from each other.

  • Remove the tape from the corners of the transfer paper. Take the white paper backing you set aside earlier, and place the shiny side back down on to the sticky transfer paper.

  • Turn your rhinestone transfer over. If any of the rhinestones are placed incorrectly, carefully use your fingernail to push them into the correct place.

Applying the Iron-On Transfer

  • Set your iron to the “Cotton” setting, and make sure the “Steam” setting is off.

  • Place the t-shirt or cotton item you wish to affix the rhinestones to on to a hard, flat surface.

  • Peel off the white backing off of the transfer, and put the sticky side of the transfer down on to the the shirt.

  • Place a piece of cotton fabric, such as an old t-shirt, over the iron before you begin the transfer.

  • Press the iron down on to a section of the transfer with firm pressure, but do not move it back and forth. Hold it in one place for 25 to 45 seconds. (Consult the rhinestone manufacturer’s instructions first. Trial and error will also help you determine the correct time.)

  • Lift the iron straight up. Repeat Step 5 on another section of the transfer and continue until the entire transfer has been covered. You may need to go over sections again to make sure the rhinestones affix.

  • Remove the cotton cloth. Let the plastic transfer sheet cool for 10 to 15 seconds. You want it cool enough not to burn your fingers but not so cool that it will stick to the shirt. Carefully peel the plastic up. If some of the rhinestones start to loosen, the transfer needs more heat, and you’ll want to repeat these steps again. Otherwise, keep peeling the plastic off to reveal your completed project.

How to Make a Sleeveless T Shirt from an Unused T Shirt

When summer comes, there’s nothing quite as comfortable as a sleeveless T-shirt. Of course, you can run to the store and plunk down a pocketful of cash, but why pay money for a sleeveless T-shirt when you you can make your regular T-shirt sleeveless just a few minutes? Here is how to do it.

1. Find the right T-shirt. heat transfer for t shirts Pull out your favorite T-shirts, and decide which of them you might want to turn sleeveless. Try them on, and see which looks the best on you.

2. Test the look. Roll up the sleeves as high as you can, or tuck them into the shirt around the seam to see if it looks good as a sleeveless T-shirt.

3. Decide how you’re going to cut it. There are two ways to go: leave the seam between the sleeve and the shirt in place, or cut it out.

  • Leaving the seam intact will keep your finished T-shirt from unravelling and looking shabby. It will also make a smaller armhole. For a baggy T-shirt, this is a good approach.iron on transfers for t shirts
  • Cutting out the seam with the sleeve is a more casual look, and because the hole is larger, a little more comfortable as well.
  • If the armhole is going to be too deep, modify your cut. Instead of following the seam all the way around the sleeve, when you are about 2/3s down the sleeve, angle out into the bottom of the sleeve. When you reach the bottom seam of the sleeve, reverse the angle and cut back in towards the shirt seam, leaving a triangle of shirtsleeve at the bottom of the hole. Trim that to fit.

4. Lay the T-shirt out on a clean, flat surface. If you’re cutting out the seam with the sleeve, mark where you are going to cut with chalk. If you’re going to keep the seam, poke your scissors into the sleeve about 1/8 inch (3mm) from the seam.

5. Carefully cut around the sleeve. If you’re keeping the seam, keep the cut close to it, about 1/8 inch (3mm) all the way around. Be careful not to cut too close to the seam, or it may unravel after a couple washings.

  • If you are cutting out the seam, follow your chalk lines, and cut as smoothly as you can to avoid a jagged look.
  • Repeat on the other sleeve.
  • Keep the sleeves for future projects.

6. When you’re done, you can hem the edges if you’d like, or simply leave them cut. They will curl and soften with use, and help you keep your cool all summer long!

7. Finished.


  • Keep a clean hem by stretching the sleeve from the body of the T-shirt, and using a hobby knife, cut the threads on the hem. The sleeve will be able to pull right off after cutting the threads a few times in different spots along the seam line.
  • Cutting sleeves in half rather than all the way off will cause the cloth to curl over outwards. This may or may not be a desirable look.
  • For a neater look, hem the sleeves—either with a sewing machine or by hand—to keep your new sleeveless T-shirt from unravelling.
  • Use the leftover sleeves for future projects. They can be used as headbands, mini handbags, cut into squares and used for quilts, or as remnants for many other projects.
  • If the shirt is baggy, mark with chalk where the cut will look best. With baggy shirts, it is usually an inch away from the seam, towards the collar. That cloth usually curls inwards.


  • Cutting the seam off of the shirt causes armholes to be larger and also leaves the armholes more likely to rip.

Things You’ll Need

  • Scissors.

  • T-shirt.

  • Tailor’s chalk.

  • Sewing kit or sewing machine.

How to Embroider

The art of sewing fancy stitches in fabric to create designs and pictures is as varied and fun today as it has been for centuries. You too can get started on your own journey into the world of thread and needle. Keep reading for detailed instructions.iron on NHL Embroidered Patches

1. Obtain fabric, an embroidery hoop, an embroidery needle (largish eye for your heavier thread) and some embroidery floss or yarn. A loose weavable fabric is a good choice for your first projects.

2. Stretch your fabric taut using the embroidery hoop. An unstretched fabric will wrinkle and become difficult to work with as you snug down the stitches.

3. Cut your floss, yarn, or heavy thread to a length of approximately 25 inches (63.5 cm). This is long enough to make some nice stitches and short enough so that it will not tangle easily.

4. Thread your needle.

5. Tie a knot in the end of the thread/floss/yarn.

6. Poke the needle through the fabric from the back side. From here on out, it’s a matter of placing stitches where you want them so that they form an outline or shape that is pleasing to you.

There are different types of stitches.

Method 1. Types of Stitches
  • Running Stitch – The classic “sewing” stitch… up,down,up,down… evenly spaced in a line so that the line looks like a row of dashes —–
  • Back Stitch
  • Blanket Stitch
  • Slip Stitch
  • Blind Stitch
  • Satin Stitch
  • Split Satin Stitch – as Satin Stitch but the second layer of stitches are sewn into the previous row splitting the thread of the stitch.
  • Feather Stitch – Looks like someone walking in long skis. The tracks X over each other.
  • French Knot – Come up from the back. Twist the thread around the needle. Poke the needle back down through the fabric right beside where it came up. The knot should tie as the thread gets pulled to the back side of the piece again.
  • Lazy Daisy – Up from the back. Make a loop on the front by poking the needle back down beside where it came up and leaving the thread loose. Come up from behind again and “tack” the end of the loop down with a tiny stitch. Repeat for each petal. of your daisy.
Method 2. Alternatives

Check out Cross Stitch embroidery. This type of embroidery use the cross stitch only and is good for beginners. Counted Cross Stitch is a variation you can look into if you enjoy cross stitching.*Look at Long Stitch embroidery. In this type of needlecraft, multiple long straight, downward stitches are used to build up an image or pattern


  • Purchasing a small embroidery kit can be a good introduction. It saves you the trouble of designing, choosing colors, and choosing a yarn.
  • Start with something small that can be completed quickly for your first project.
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